Man's Waistcoat
Subject
Clothing and Dress
Title
Man's Waistcoat
Date
ca. 1830 -1848
Format
Length: 19.25 inches (48.9 cm)
Waist: 33 inches (83.8 cm)
Waist: 33 inches (83.8 cm)
Description
This vest belonged to the father of the donor, Ray S. Oatly, Jr. Her grandmother's wedding dress, dated to 1801 or 1802, was in the same donation. Ray Jr. was her youngest son, and he would have worn the vest as a young man, which suggests that it was made in the 1830s or 1840s.
The front of the vest is made from a white pique fabric; the back is white cotton or linen. Vest backs were made of plain fabrics as a cost saving measure, because a man would never have been seen without his coat on. The vest has a shawl collar and curved welt pockets that extend into the side seams. Shawl collars also became the norm in the 1830s. The vest closes in the center front with five mother-of-pearl buttons. The back of the vest laces up to provide a snug fit. Two darts have been sewn in the chest area extending out from the armscye. The vest is entirely hand sewn.
Menswear of the 1830s closely reflected the silhouette of womenswear. Coats and vests were cinched in at the waist. The lace-up on the back of this vest reflects the tightly laced corsets women wore at this time.
Towards the end of the 1830s, men opted to shape the chests by adding padding to their coats or vests. The front stitching seen in the Collection’s waistcoat could have been an alteration to make the garment tighter at the sleeves. Beginning in the 1830s, padding and darts were used to shape the chest.
Throughout the nineteenth century, waistcoats were the most colorful and intricate element of menswear. A white vest would have been reserved for white tie events and formal evening wear.
References
Franklin, Harper. "1830-39 - Fashion History Timeline" Fashion Institute of Technology, August 20, 2020.
The front of the vest is made from a white pique fabric; the back is white cotton or linen. Vest backs were made of plain fabrics as a cost saving measure, because a man would never have been seen without his coat on. The vest has a shawl collar and curved welt pockets that extend into the side seams. Shawl collars also became the norm in the 1830s. The vest closes in the center front with five mother-of-pearl buttons. The back of the vest laces up to provide a snug fit. Two darts have been sewn in the chest area extending out from the armscye. The vest is entirely hand sewn.
Menswear of the 1830s closely reflected the silhouette of womenswear. Coats and vests were cinched in at the waist. The lace-up on the back of this vest reflects the tightly laced corsets women wore at this time.
Towards the end of the 1830s, men opted to shape the chests by adding padding to their coats or vests. The front stitching seen in the Collection’s waistcoat could have been an alteration to make the garment tighter at the sleeves. Beginning in the 1830s, padding and darts were used to shape the chest.
Throughout the nineteenth century, waistcoats were the most colorful and intricate element of menswear. A white vest would have been reserved for white tie events and formal evening wear.
References
Franklin, Harper. "1830-39 - Fashion History Timeline" Fashion Institute of Technology, August 20, 2020.
Source
Donor: Ralph and Mary Emma (Oatley) Northup, Wakefield, RI.
Identifier
URI 1954.66.01
Contributor
Aileen Valerio
Collection
Citation
“Man's Waistcoat,” Historic Textile and Costume Collection, accessed April 26, 2024, https://uritextilecollection.omeka.net/items/show/549.