Fashion Plate, June 1824

Illustration

Fashion Plate, June 1824

1824

Throughout the history of human dress, there have been many different sources expressing the attire of the time, from art and sculpture to modern magazines. In the late eighteenth century we saw the emergence of a new source called fashions plates. Fashion plates usually depicted women’s fashions but included men’s as well. Early fashion plates could contain information on where the styles could be bought. Fashion plates remained the preferred method of displaying current fashions through most of the nineteenth century. Technological advancements and finally the development of photography allowed more of society to participate in current fashion through greater dissemination of fashion plates.

My specific fashion plate is a French publication of a woman in June, 1824. The caption is “Chapeau de bois blanc garni de croissans de la même matiére et de plumes. Robe de gros d'été. Colerette de tulle et rubans.” A loose translation into English is “White wooden hat garnished with crescents of the same material and feathers. Robe of summer silk. Tulle collar and ribbons.” The woman is seen wearing a blue dress, probably what was known as a "pelisse," a type of coat dress. During this period there were strict societal standards that separated day oufits from evening dresses. The main difference is that a day outfit covered the arms and neck, whereas an evening dress allowed for the arms and neck to be exposed. This ensemble appears to be one piece. As fitting with the trends in the 1820s and the Romantic era, her sleeves have shoulder puffs that are directed horizontally across the arms.

Towards the bottom of the pelisse, we see the ruffled, decorative trim running horizontally as well. Her skirt is wide, but not too extreme. The image depicts an elevated waistline but is lower than the former popular Empire waist. Above her shoulders, we see a variation of a ruff collar, but this one is more dainty and feminine compared to the ones in previous centuries. Atop her head sits a white bonnet probably stiffened with pieces of shaved wood. It is adorned with dramatic embellishments such as feathers and ribbon. Draped across her arm is a shawl featuring a multi-colored decorative trim. She also holds in her hand a sunshade or parasol, used to protect the skin from harsh sun rays. She wears a small pair of plain pointed black shoes.

This particular fashion plate was published by the Journal des Dames et des Modes. The Journal des Dames et des Modes was a fashion magazine published between 1797 and 1839. As the second-oldest fashion magazine in France, it succeeded the Cabinet des Modes (1785-1793) which ceased publications during the French Revolution. Throughout much of its history the Journal enjoyed a monopoly in the industry of fashion both domestically and globally. Between 1797 and the 1820s the Journal des Dames et des Modes served as a guide for Europeans and North Americans, illustrating how to create a modern identity in terms of appearance, literature, and leisure. “[The journal] rejected the dress rules and materials that had signaled static social rank in favor of mobile and sexual self-expression through consumer choice.”(McCourt) The 1820s experienced a marked increase in the circulation of similar publications, which ultimately led to the journal's demise in 1839. In 1824 the magazine published a collection on “Costume Parisien” which can now be found in several archives of fashion history.

In conclusion, the Journal des Dames et des Modes played a significant role in shaping the cultural landscape of its time. The detailed examination of the 1824 fashion plate reveals a glimpse into the societal norms and fashions of the time. The translated description highlights the woman's ensemble, featuring a white bonnnet adorned with feathered embellishments, a blue pelisse with distinctive horizontal shoulder puffs and ruffled trim, and a shawl with multi-colored decorative trim. Fashion plates were and continue to be an integral part of our understanding of fashion history.

References

Higonnet, A. (n.d.). Style Revolution: Journal des Dames et des Modes (1797-1804) Digitized! | Fashion History Timeline. Fashion History Timeline. https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/style-revolution/

Journal des dames et des modes. Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Journal_des_dames_et_des_modes.

McCourt, Emily. (2021, January 8). A brief history of the fashion plate. Maryland Center for History and Culture. https://www.mdhistory.org/a-brief-history-of-the-fashion-plate/

Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, New York. Costume parisien, 1824. https://libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p16028coll1/id/25190/

National Portrait Gallery, London, England. Le Journal des Dames et des Modes. https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp160236/le-journal-des-dames-et-des-modes

Nevinson, John L. Origin and Early History of the Fashion Plate. Washington, D.C.: Smithsonian Press, 1967.

 

Welters, Linda. Lectures. History of Western Dress, University of Rhode Island.

Donor: URI Purchase

URI 1957.99.41

Catie Cleary

Journal des Dames et des Modes
Pierre de la Mésangère, Paris (1797-1839)