Fashion Plate, 1828
Costumes Parisiens

This hand-colored fashion plate is identified on the page as #2567 and dated 1828. The artist is unknown. The image was probably published in Le Journal des Dames et des Modes, Costumes Parisiens. This was a French magazine founded and edited by Pierre de la Mésangère (1761-1831). At the height of its popularity, the magazine was published every five days to keep up with the rapidly changing fashions of the time (National Portrait Gallery). The journal highlighted fashion for both men and women as well as offered the usual articles on poetry, society and culture. Begun in 1797, publication ceased in 1839, primarily due to competition from other French as well as English magazines fueld by technological changes in engraving and printing early in the 19th century. Mésangère's work influenced these competitors, who would feature coies of the fashion plates in some of their publications.

The description, in French, beneath the image states "Manteau de drap double de pluche de soie. Habit garni de boutons dores. Gilet de velours. Pantalon de casimir. Redingote de drop. Habit a collet de velours et boutons de soie." Translated this possibly describes the garments as "Cloth coat, with over cape, of plush silk cloth. Garment trimmed with gold buttons. Velvet vest. Casimir [cassimere] pants. Cloth frock coat. Coat with velvet collar and silk buttons." While this is a somewhat vague description of the two outfits, we do get an idea of the fabrics used for men's attire, including expensive materials such as gold and silk, and woven fabrics such as velvet and the relatively new cassimere. This was originally made from fine Spanish Merino wool, woven in a twill pattern to create a fine, soft and warm fabric. It became popular in the latter part of the 1700s.

Mens’ attire was inspired by prior periods and parrelled the woman's silhouette. Both silhouettes suggest a narrow waist and curved hipline, similar to that popular in women's fashion of the same time. Men may even have worn a corset to create this desirable shape. Sloping shoulders, emphasized by the wide cravat tied high on the neck, echo the sloping shoulders also fashionable for women. 

The red-colored neckwear and light colored greatcoat on the left suggest daywear, while the white neckwear and black cape would be considerd appropriate for evening attire. During the 1820s-1840s, neckwear color was associated with time of day. Black and other colors were popular for day use where white was used for evening attire.

Looking more closely, the gentleman on the left is wearing a white double-breasted greatcoat. Under that is a black-double breasted tailcoat, buttoned. Underneath the tailcoat we can see a red stock with a white cravat peeking out the collar. For pants, he has light blue, ankle-length pantaloons paired with black shoes/boots. The straps keeping the legs straight are clearly visible around the shoes. For accessories he has a tall black top hat that widens at the top, and white gloves. The facial hair is trimmed to long sideburns. 

The man on the right is wearing formal evening attire perhaps for the opera. He wears an ankle-length brown cape lined with red, possibly silk, with an oversape of the same fabrics. The cape has what appears to be a fur collar and button clasp. Underneath the cape is a dark blue tailcoat buttoned up with a white shirt and stock sticking out the collar. The garments are paired with black pantaloons and black shoes/boots. The shoes have an interesting texture suggesting footwear for a fancy ball or other indoor activity. For accessories he also has white gloves and a high black top hat that curves out at the top. He holds what may be a watch or monocle in one hand. He also has long sideburns.

When comparing these styles, we can see that there is a distinction between evening wear and day wear. The daywear has some lighter and softer colors where the nighttime has darker and bold colors in their undertones. Analyzing Fashion Plate #2567 provides valuable insight into what was considered fashionable during 1828 and captures the essence of the era in which it was created. We know how time of day and occasion played a role on what clothing a person would decide to wear.
Studying these we know what was considered popular and modest by the majority of the people during a time period.

References

“Fashion Plates Introduction.” National Portrait Gallery, National Portrait Gallery, 2023,
www.npg.org.uk/collections/research/new-research-on-the-collection/fashionplates/fashion
-plates-introduction.

“Le Journal Des Dames et Des Modes - National Portrait Gallery.” National Portrait
Gallery, National Portrait Gallery, 2023,
www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp160236/le-journal-des-dames-et-des-modes#
:~:text=Le%20Journal%20des%20Dames%20et%20des%20Modes%20(Paris)%20was%2
0an,until%20his%20death%20in%201831.

Nevinson, John L. “Origin and Early History of the Fashion Plate.” Origin and Early
History of the Fashion Plate, Smithsonian Press Washington, D.C., Oct. 1967,
www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/34472/pg34472-images.html.

Peacock, John. Men's Fashion : the Complete Sourcebook. 91-102. London: Thames and
Hudson, 1996.

Welters, Linda. Lectures from class 2023.