Fashion Plate - Fashions
Four Figures, 1843

Godey’s Lady's Book, July 1843

This outdoor scene illustrates three women in day dresses and a woman on horseback. The dresses are characterized by narrow waists and moderately full skirts. The sleeves start below the natural shoulder; the woman in the center is positioned to display this style. A “must have” for women when outside was a bonnet or hat. The woman standing on the left has her head turned away in conversation to show off the back of her bonnet. Modesty was key, so arms were covered and the hems of dresses ended at or below the ankle. Technical advancements allowed for factory made textiles to enter the closets of even the most modest households; however, all sewing was still done by hand. Elias Howe’s sewing machine was still several years away.

Horseback riding was one of the few outdoor activities that was acceptable for women. Upper class women learned to ride side saddle at an early age. The activity itself was fashionable, meant for display, so fashionable outfits for riding were imperative. Women’s outfits for riding were termed riding habits, and they were influenced by menswear. While a woman might take fashion plate such as this to a dressmaker or attempt to make the dresses on the right by herself, the riding habit would be made by a tailor. Expertise in handling wool fabrics would be needed create the tailored look depicted in the image. Other menswear influences can be seen including the tie at the neck and the top hat, feminized here with a veil. Black and other dark colors were used for riding habits. Skirts were longer on one side in order to keep both legs covered while astride the horse.

References

Hunt-Hearst, Patricia. “Riding Habits, 1820-1859.” 217-18. In Clothing and Fashion: American Fashion from Head to Toe. Vol. 2. José Blanco F. and Patricia Hunt-Hearst (eds). Santa Barbara, CA: ABC-CLIO, 2016.