Woman's Brocade Dress with Jacket by Givenchy

Hubert de Givenchy (1927-2018) can be remembered as one of the greatest couturiers in twentieth-century fashion history. His inspiration often came from his background. His muse was Audrey Hepburn, and his idol was Balenciaga. Some of his greatest works include his versions of the little black dress, balloon dress, shirt, and shift/chemise dress. His work with Audrey Hepburn, beginning in 1953, helped him become popular with other celebrities such as Grace Kelly and Jackie Kennedy. Givenchy, with his many wealthy and influential clients, redefined the standards of beauty from the 1950s through 1995 when he retired.

The green and black brocade floral shift dress with a matching jacket is from the 1960s. The garment is well made and in very good condition. Slight discoloration at the neck and armscye indicate this garment was worn. The hip-length jacket, with a Peter Pan collar, closes in the front with six large, fabric covered snaps; three ornate buttons of green glass decorate the outside. The long-sleeve jacket is shaped with a single dart on each side front, side panels extending from the side front to the side back, and a center back seam. The jacket and dress are lined with a green silk fabric that has been installed with hand sewing. The simple shift dress, with a jewel neckline, closes in the center back with a hand-picked metal zipper. The fitted front is achieved with a panel at each side which has an angled dart to the bust. The princess seams created on the back of the dress by each side panel, and pairs of darts extending from each shoulder seam and the neckline, complete the minimal shaping. The garment design is simple, the construction details professional and in keeping with garments made at a couture level. The heavy fabric contributes to the formality and fit of this ensemble. This dress with matching jacket is made of a brocade fabric in which black-colored chenille yarns are combined with yarns of green silk, creating a fabric both colorful and textural.

Huberty James Taffin de Givenchy arrived in Paris at the age of seventeen to follow his dreams. He studied at the Ecole Nationale Superieure des Beaux-Arts, apprenticed at the Jacques Fath couture house, and worked for several French designers, joining Elsa Schiaparelli in 1947 where he later became the Artistic Director (Skrebneski).

In 1952 Givenchy went on to found a successful fashion house. During the early part of his career, Givenchy made many ready-to-wear garments. This included his first “separates” collection that consisted of blouses, tops, and skirts which could be mixed and matched with each other to create more than just one look. “Givenchy’s debut spring/summer collection in 1952 introduced the world of couture to a wardrobe of separates…” (Burney, 2020). The designer presented elegant blouses and breezy skirts which connected architectural lines and the simplicity of materials. At the beginning of his career, due to financial limitations, Givenchy chose to use less expensive fabrics for his garments. What he lacked in material he made up for in the design (Economos, 2018).

Givenchy met Audrey Hepburn when he designed her costumes for the 1953/54 movie Sabrina. Hepburn continued to wear Givenchy designs in her films for many years. Givenchy also went on to meet Balenciaga, who was his idol and inspiration (Skrebneski). He created his own interpretation of the baby doll dress after Balenciaga’s version.  “All my lines are styles for quick and fluid movement. My dresses are real dresses, ultra-light, free of padding and corseting, garments that will float on a body delivered from bondage” (Britannica, 2006). Another Balenciaga design, the balloon coat, was remodeled with Givenchy’s style. The softly shaped shoulders with a wide silhouette ended just above the knee (Britannica, 2006), a style that continued to influence the fashion of the sixties. The iconic black dress, worn by Audrey Hepburn in the 1961 movie Breakfast at Tiffany’s, is clearly inspired by Balenciaga’s designs.

Hubert de Givenchy bridged the gap between Parisian and American fashion. He effortlessly designed clothes that adorned European royalty and Hollywood celebrities. “Givenchy had long been a classicist, one of the last of the old school haute couture, where gorgeous clothes were made for a woman to live in, not to decorate her...his clothes moved with a woman’s body, rather than restricted it…” (McDonough, 2018). Givenchy is remembered for his exquisite style and chic designs. 

References

Burney, P. E. (2020, April 10). Givenchy Designers. Vogue France. https://www.vogue.fr/fashion/article/givenchy-designers-through-the-decades

Economos, N. (2018, March 13). How Hubert de Givenchy changed fashion as we know it. The Sydney Morning Herald. https://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/how-hubert-de-givenchy-changed-fashion-as-we-know-it-20180313-p4z442.html

Hollen, N., & Saddler, J. (1988). Textiles. New York: Macmillan.

Hubert de Givenchy. (2021, March 6). Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/biography/Hubert-de-Givenchy

McDonough, M. (2018, March 12). Hubert de Givenchy, French clothing designer. The Washington Post. https://www.washingtonpost.com/local/obituaries/hubert-de-givenchy-french-clothing-designer-who-transformed-audrey-hepburn-into-a-style-legend-dies-at-91/2018/03/12/f64f83f0-25fe-11e8-b79d-f3d931db7f68_story.html

Mulvagh, J. (2018, March 12). Hubert de Givenchy: French fashion designer.

Independent. https://www.independent.co.uk/news/obituaries/hubert-de-givenchy-dead-died-couturier-audrey-elegance-hepburn-dior-a8252191.html

Roff, C. (2011, November 11). Hubert de Givenchy. Vogue United Kingdom. https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/hubert-de-givenchy-biography

Skrebneski, V. (n.d.). Maison Hubert de Givenchy. Givenchy. https://www.givenchy.com/us/en-US/maison-history-hubert-de-givenchy-biography.html

Savage, C. (2018, March 23). Hubert de Givenchy: Inspiring Change. The State Times. https://thestatetimes.com/2018/03/23/hubert-de-givenchy-inspiring-change-through-material-designs/

Zachary, C. (2015, February 21). Born on this day in fashion history: Hubert de Givenchy. The Art of Dress. https://theartofdress.org/2015/02/21/born-on-this-day-in-fashion-history-hubert-de-givenchy/