Woman's Fortuny Scarf
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Description
Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949) is a well known Spanish-born artist who built his career in Venice beginning in 1906, finding great popularity during the 1920s and '30s. A Fortuny shop opened in New York City at 509 Madison Avenue in 1928, after interior designer Elsie McNeill Lee persuaded Fortuny that she should be the exclusive American distributor of his garments and dresses. His legacy continues with a fashion house that produces the quality velvet goods and silks Fortuny was notorious for using. His best-known look is the Delphos dress, a gown of finely pleated silk that was inspired by classicism and the Renaissance.
The scarf has three major components: the fashion fabric is on the outer side, with a lining or the inner side, and tassels. The outer side, visible when the scarf is worn, is a velvet. This is arguably the most impressive piece of the scarf, as Fortuny was known for his velvets. The base weave is a lime green color while the velvet pile is a deep, navy blue. These contrasting colors give an illusion of shimmering material when the scarf is folded, as the green peeks through the blue pile to give a streak of vibrant color When laying flat, it would require a close inspection to see the green lying beneath the surface. It is striking to see the color-changing effect when the fabric is gently folded or draped, and it is easily imagined around a woman’s arms as she moves.
Another feature of the scarf is the pattern printed onto the velvet. The large, repeating filigree pattern was stencilled onto the velvet; these sections have a stiff and slightly crusty texture. The color of the pattern shows as a slightly lighter blue than the pile.
The lining, the side that would rest against the body of the wearer, is an intense chartreuse green color. The material itself is a satin weave of what is probably silk. Taking a fiber analysis sample would have damaged the garment, so it is more favorable to assume that it is silk that gives the scarf lining its soft texture.
The third set of components are three beaded tassels, one at every corner of the scarf. The tassels themselves are made from a braided cord the same shade of green as the lining. More delicate and decorative strands of thread are wrapped and woven into the tassel pattern in addition to the cord. However, the beads are the main attraction. Two golden beads, possibly enamel or glass, frame a Murano glass wedding cake bead that sits between each fabric corner and tassel. These beads have colorful spots and lines possibly made from copper infusions.
This scarf functions primarily as an aesthetic accessory as well as a functional one. While it would be useful in the late spring and early fall as a shield against the chill of the night, as a means of keeping out the cold it falls short when compared with shawls made of other materials. It is certainly more wearable due to the look of it as a fun piece to add to an ensemble.
While the early 20th century was riddled with war and revelry, it is the latter that led to the creation of this Fortuny scarf. The 1920s marked the end of the neccesity to live frugally during and immediately after WWI. With the Great War over, Europe celebrated by enjoying life in excess.
This scarf displayed the wealth of its owner through the designer's name and quality of material used. Additionally, the scarf acted as a status symbol, also because of the designer, as Fortuny was well known and his work was admired. This piece was meant to be shown off and lovingly gawked at by onlookers who knew not only the importance of the materials, but the importance of following trends as well.
In a contemporary setting, this scarf offers a peek into the past-lived lifestyle of the 1920s. It is an insight to the materials, colors, and styles that were popular during that time. It is easy to imagine the effect this scarf would have on a woman; how it might make her feel glamorous. This is an effect that is still desirable today, and it is interesting to think about what modern accessories evoke that exquisite sense of glamor today. Even more interesting, is how this nearly century-old scarf still invokes an air of elegance in a contemporary audience.
References
Bailey Saxl, C. (2012, January 13). "Wedding Cakes": Venetian Fiorato Beads. Jewel Stories.
http://jewel-stories.blogspot.com/2012/01/wedding-cakes-venetian-fiorato-beads.html.
Encyclopædia Britannica, inc. Mariano Fortuny. Encyclopædia Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/biography /Mariano-Fortuny-Spanish-Italian-multimedia-artist-1871-1949.
Gallery of 1920s Vintage Clothing. Gallery of 1920s vintage clothing at Vintage Textile. https://www.vintagetextile.com/gallery_1920s.htm.
History. Fortuny. (2020, November 30) https://fortuny.com/history/.
Source
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unlabeled
Medium
silk satin weave
fiber identification not done
metallic pigment for printing