Vignette 4
Waistcoat, c. 1820-1840 (back left)
Complex-weave silk, plain weave cotton
URI 1952.63.92
The information from donor Franklin Cushman says that this double-breasted vest was worn by Jason Williams (1774 – 1863), Susan Crouch’s father. As a merchant and shop owner, Jason would have had access to imported goods such as this silk, complex satin-weave fabric.
A vest, or waistcoat as it was also called, was often the most colorful part of a man’s wardrobe during the early 1800s. When worn under a coat only the front would be seen, and gentlemen rarely removed their coats in public. This is why the shoulders and back of the vest are made from a much more utilitarian material.
Tailcoat, 1790 – 1815 (back right)
URI 1952.64.266
Fashions change during times of social, political and/or economic upheaval, and the political revolutions during the late 18th century inspired the new shape of this tailcoat. The style developed in England for use as a riding coat. The casual attire was adopted by those who wanted to separate themselves from the aristocracy as part of the egalitarian movements in the new United States of America and France.
This brown and white check, printed cotton coat may have been worn by William Hilton Williams (1780 – 1800), who passed away in Surinam in South America. Information from Franklin Cushman suggests that the coat was returned in William’s sea chest. William’s father, Elijah (1744 – 1825) was a merchant and may have had the business connections that allowed for the return of his son’s belongings.
Gingham trousers, c. 1820-30 (front left)
Printed plain weave cotton
URI 1952.64.271
Since fall-front trousers fell out of fashion in the 1840’s, one of Susan’s male relatives probably wore this pair before she returned to Providence in 1837. Gingham fabric was easily produced in the textile mills of the period and was popular for daily wear, for both adults and children.
Everyday clothing is much less likely to survive and be accessioned into museum collections because it is most often worn out or reused. Notice the wear and tear on these trousers – why was this pair saved?
Coat, 1825 – 1850 (front right)
URI 1952.64.255
According to Franklin Cushman, this woven green-checked coat would have been worn with the green-checked pants, URI 1952.64.271. The coat has no waist seam, indicating that it is an early sack coat, a style that was popular along with the more formal frock coat during much of the 1800s. The shape of the lapel or shoulder may be different, and the fabrics considered suitable for a man’s garment may vary, but the suit jacket worn by men today derives directly from this 19th century garment.